Tobago is about fifty kilometers north east of Trinidad: a twenty-five minute flight, but one that gave Andreas the usual heebie-jeebies nonetheless.After ten minutes he was sweating profusely, scrambling for anything to relieve his profuse sweating. The mp3 player would have been good to use to drown out the drone of the propellers, or as Andreas calls them “Bringers of DEATH (and some forms of) PLAGUE!” – but it was, unfortunately, in the overhead compartment, and the seatbelt signs were on. After about ten minutes, the seatbelt sign was switched off.
BLING!
"Oh! Look honey!"I say.
"Seatbelt signs are off. You can get the-"BLING!
"...seatbelt back on again."Andreas slumped back into his seat. This is the thing with traveling over short distances, or at least traveling with the Trinidad-Tobago shuttle. Half of the journey is take off, the other half is landing. The seatbelt sign being switched off is more of a formality to mark the twenty seconds of ‘actual’ cruise time. Or just for the private amusement of the pilots. Switching the seatbelts sign for as short a period of time as that is like saying "
BLING! You could go to the bathroom... (BLING!)...
thebathroominyour PANTS!"
The ResortTen minutes later, we were in Tobago, and checked in shortly after at the Rainbow Resort, highly recommended to anyone staying in Tobago. It’s not much of a looker from the outside, all concrete and aquamarine, with a car rental agency in the front yard, but the staff is excellent, the pool adequate, the rooms air-conditioned and fully equipped with kitchen, two bathrooms in the bigger suites, and cable television. The ‘apartments’ look like regular apartments, and provide that home away from home feeling. Five people can live comfortably in a three bedroom apartment for approximately 90 USD per night.
Ants, Crazy Ants.The only thing one might not appreciate is that one has to share the habitat with crazy ants, which are, as the name implies, very interesting creatures, and quite enjoyable to look at. They run around with no specific goal, sometimes carrying a crumb or a dead recyclable friend on their backs. You can’t really get away from these, no matter where you go, so you either accept their existence, or find yourself a very tall palm tree from which too look down on them and proceed to pelt any approaching crazy ants with coconuts. Spotting them might be a problem, because of their size, as is aiming, since they follow no discernable path, but just appear to be trying to get as far away from themselves as possible. One may notice the same behavior in drunken Germans on speed and with an unparalleled lust for marching into each other, hard.
The Beach
We hit the beach – Store Bay - almost immediately. Store Bay is one of the more popular beaches in Tobago, it is near to the airport and hotels, and clean. It is only three minutes away from Rainbow resort, or pretty much any resort at Crown Point. One of the more annoying things about Tobago, however, is getting from the roadside and down the steps to the beach. From a distance of about 200 meters away, various men approach you, trying to sell boat trips, rent out beach chairs, or telling you how nice your eyes are.
Here’s a pointer, even if you beat everything else off with a short but sharp stick - which is not recommended - then the boat trip in the glass bottomed boat is a must. Compare prices between the different boats if you will, prices tend to fluctuate, having risen from 25 TT dollars (4 USD) to 70 TT (12 USD) in the past ten years. People usually try to give you a "special" deal though- which usually turns out to be the exact price of the boat trip anyhow. I recommend a boat called “Pleasure Girl”, whose tour guide is warm and friendly, even though not even locals understand what he is saying at any given time.
Reef Tours"Pleasure Girl", like the other boats, takes you to Buccoo Reef. Not the parts with a more colorful display of coral, but with interesting fish in abundance. If something nips you mercilessly, its tiny tiny fish telling you that you’re too close to their eggs. Nasty little buggers, but when the army you’re spawning is a stake, it seems integral to take the enemy’s epidermal cells hostage.
The next stop is the Nylon Pool, which has a bed of broken coral chipped into the size of sand grains. Nothing too remarkable about this, except that it’s in the middle of the ocean, and not more than 1. 3 meters deeps. I’m not sure where the boundaries off, but luckily, mom asked us to watch her so she didn’t float into the depths. We watched her float off for a while, swam back to the boat, got goggles, a drink of water, and a quick word with the tour guide, and when we spotted mom again, she was still floating with a smile on her face some twenty metres away, so I assume that the ‘pool’ is pretty large. An interesting bit of trivia is that there’s a legend that says that you look ten years younger after having bathed in the pool, and that kissing the one you love means that you will stay together forever. All in all, the tour takes about two and a half hours, and is well worth the money, regardless the cost.
Dining and Wining.

Café Coco is a must. It’s not one of those romantic sea-side restaurants; it’s a romantic non-sea side restaurant, with a 200 TTD (34USD) lobster platter. It’s surrounded by artificial waterfalls, and lush greenery, has wonderful service, and a warm yellow lighting, with marblesque Greek inspired statues hidden away here and there. Excellent well rounded menu, great staff, and speedy service. You can get away with an excellent dinner for two for about 60 USD. Otherwise, there are many roadside restaurants that provide local lunches from about 4 USD, which will leave you very satisfied and very self conscious about putting on that bathing suit again. Tip: Swimming after a meal does not cause cramps, but actually relieves them. I think. I tried that method, and
look ma, no pace maker.
Tours on landA taxi driver will take you around Tobago for about 500 TTD (under a 100 USD). We went on a whole day tour around the central/ southern areas of Tobago. Central Tobago is surprisingly hilly, compared to the southernmost part of the island. Andreas took some great shots of ravines and valleys; I opted to stay in the car because of the great altitudes. No matter how flat the ground of the plateau one is standing on is, I KNOW that the land will suddenly slant and send me hurtling down the mountain side.


Touring the island may not be for those with fears of heights, but does offer breathtaking views of the beautiful bays and beaches, of which Englishman’s bay is said to be the most beautiful, since there are no resorts or tourist facilities around (no restuaraunts, bathrooms). That's right. You can now pee in the water and not feel so bad.

There are however, houses and shacks in the most unlikely of places – clinging to slopes and in the middle of the forests. When I say clinging to slopes, I mean clinging to slopes. You may often look downwards into the valley you are passing over to see a rooftop sticking over the edge of the road, or see a house hovering over the steep incline supported only by concrete pillars on the side over the precipice. While these houses hanging over their respective 40 meter or so drops probably have wonderful views, a mudslide or a light earthquake would probably change this view into something considerable nastier: trees whooshing by and coconut wielding tourists aiming for you as you fly by, mistaking your desperate waving for the mysterious antics of the crazy ant.

(rooftop visible in left hand corner, treetop sticking up next to it)
Visiting the different forts is a treat, these are planted over cliff walls, placed there to guard the seas and cannonball any potential enemies. These were put out of use decades of not centuries ago, but a beautiful remnants.


Some tourists, of course, choose to misuse these artefacts.
While up at any major tourist attraction, you may be greeted by a troubadour or two, who make up songs about you on the spot, commenting your great beauty as in my case, or dad’s big belly, as in dad’s case. Whether the troubadour’s song is welcomed or not, it is good to show your ‘appreciation’ with a few dollars. Twenty TTD or 4USD is usually enough, fifty TTD if there’s a few of you. It’s not too much. Tobago is a very tourist oriented country, and as one stand at Store Bay says in shaky writing – "It’s nice to be nice".
And Tobago is indeed nice. We left today, after one last dip at Store Bay. The waves were exceptionally high, the largest being about one and a half meters in height, as experienced first hand. I had spotted my brother sitting on the beach and had waded in nearer to the beach to wave to him. Mid-wave, I heard an all too familiar whooshing behind me, and turned around just to see a wave loom high above me where I sat in the water. I didn’t have time to close my mouth before it hit me, dragging me under the surface and pelting my legs in unspeakably vulgar directions. A small consolation is that when my ass did resurface - complete with a wedgy up to my uterus - it was a lovely shade of golden brown, the result of four days in the sun. All in all though, it was an interesting end to a most interesting vacation.
And now for the perks: "before and after tanning" pictures of the Andmeister and me.
Me, Before and After. And yes, I only have that ONE camera expression.

Andreas, Before and After.